Basically, we’re talking about the size of the solids in the liquid. Effluent water can contain solids up to 5 cm in size. This is normally considered to be water containing soap, laundry discharge, water from sinks, etc. Water with larger solids is called sewage water.
Selecting the right size and power of the ideal submersible pump results from the height and the amount of water that should be pumped. For each pump, the performance can be read from the performance curve.
We very strongly recommend that you do NOT use an extension cord.
You want to have a sump pit large enough to use a pump with a tethered float switch. That allows a reasonable amount of water to accumulate before the pump has to run. The longer “off” time between pump cycles allows the pump to cool off more completely between pumping cycles. The specific minimum sizes of the required sump pit please refer to the respective data sheet.
The short answer here is “Usually- yes.” A check valve gets installed in the discharge pipe of your sump pump. When the pump runs, the water is forced out through the valve. When the pump shuts off, gravity wants the water in the discharge pipe to fall back into the sump pit. The check valve prevents that from happening. This prevents the pump from having to re-pump water that it has already pumped out. In the long run, this should extend the life of the pump and save you electricity.
No, we (as well as others) recommend you install the check valve in a vertical position (up-and-down), so that the integrated flap is inserted horizontally. When the pump shuts off, the check valve will be closed by the action of the water colomn above.
Installing a sump pump is typically easily done in a matter of minutes. The only tools you’ll need are channel locks, screwdriver, and, in rigid installations, a hacksaw. Complete easy-to-read installation instructions are included with each pump. We always recommend a new check valve when replacing your sump pump. A lot of videos and animations you can find on our YouTube channel.
It is best to use a hose or pipe that is the same size as (or larger than) the pump’s actual discharge. Using a reducer, smaller hose, or smaller pipe, will reduce the output of the pump. If reduced too much, the pump can even be damaged. If the pump came from the factory with a garden hose adapter, then it is designed to be used with a garden hose. Keep in mind that garden hoses come in different diameters and lengths. Use a garden hose that is as fat as possible, and as short as possible. This will give the pump the ability to perform as well as it can.
If your discharge pipe freezes, or in any way becomes plugged, there is no place for the water to go when the pump runs. The pump is still going to run when the float switch is raised. If it cannot discharge the water through the regular discharge hose or pipe, it’s going to continue to run and run. This will eventually cause the pump to overheat and shut off due to its internal thermal overload protection. If the problem is not caught soon enough, it would be possible for your basement to flood. Due to this fact a separate alarm system is useful.
Never use a smaller diameter pipe than the size of the pump’s discharge. You may even have to use larger diameter pipe if you have to push a long distance. Be careful with this though, because if a pipe of too large a diameter is used, the flow rate of the discharge can be too slow. This can cause the solids to settle out and lay in the pipe. Over time, the sludge that builds up will cause blockages in the pipe. The minimum flow rate of sewage and other liquids containing solids is 0,7 meter per second. If you are designing a sewage run for your home, please contact your plumber.
If a pipe of too large a diameter is used, the flow rate of the discharge can be too slow. This can cause the solids to settle out and lay in the pipe. Over time, the sludge that builds up will cause blockages in the pipe. The minimum flow rate of sewage and other liquids containing solids is 0,7 meter per second. If you are designing a sewage run for your home, please contact your plumber.
No. Technically speaking, a “grinder” pump has an impeller that is made like blades. It can cut up, or grind up the sewage being passed through it. Regular sewage pumps do not do that. “Solids handling” pumps simply pass the solids through mostly intact, without cutting or grinding.
“Solids” do not mean things like bolts and stones. We are talking about things that normally get passed through drains or flushed down a toilet. Most sewage pumps have a thermoplastic impeller that could be damaged by very hard items.
This is almost impossible to answer. It’s much like asking how long your car will last. It simply depends too much on how often the pump has to run. If you have a small sump, and you have several people in the home, the pump will have to run a lot more than someone with a larger sump. Depending on the number of accrued hours of operation and the care and maintenance, the durability of the pump will be.
Some pumps can be ordered with a longer cord. We also sell longer power cords for some of our pumps. If you need further information please call our sales representatives or our colleagues in the sales service.
No. Feminine products should not be flushed when a sewage pump has to handle that. Sewage pumps can have problems passing those items and could become jammed.
Yes, all pumps are suitable to pump laundry water.
Our pumps are designed to pump sewage water. We have not tested the pumps with other liquids and cannot say whether they will be chemically compatible with what you need to pump. Never pump anything flammable with any of our pumps!
On all sump, sewage, and utility pumps we attach a label that has the pump number, the CE sign and some technical data of the product on it. The first two digits of the pump number indicate the year of production.
Repair parts can be ordered directly through us by calling +49 (0) 1805/188887 or writing an email to email@example.com.
In deviation from the statutory regulations, the length of our warranty period for private as well as commercial customers is always 2 years! That is not two years after the date of purchase but – to your benefit – 2 years from your pumping system's installation date! If you have purchased a service contract (type "Standard Plus" or "Top") for your pumping system from us, you have 5 years of warranty after conclusion of the contract. However, please note that particularly damages due to wear and tear as well as incorrect installation, utilization or operation are not covered by the warranty.
The use of a so-called dual system is mandatory necessarily where the sewage flow must not be interrupted (e.g in restaurants). In contrast, having a backup or secondary pump is like having insurance on your car or home. It´s only needed if the installed pump fails. The purchase of a replacement pump depends on the local conditions.
In most cases, no. Many pumps do have a thermal cut-off that will stop the motor if it is overheating. But that will reset itself when the motor cools down.
No. Sewage pumps are not suitable for these applications.
No. Pumps are designed to move water. If you block the discharge of a pump (such as a sprayer handle would do) then the pump will be automatically switched off by the thermostat.
Most submersible pumps are designed to pump clear, clean water. Debris can block off the intake causing the pump to be starved for water. If it gets to the inside of the pump, the debris can damage the impeller, shaft seal, and other internal parts. Depending on the size of solids the pump selection must be done.
No, for these requirements sump pumps are not suitable.
Not in principle. As with every ‘normal’ drain it is also important to clean the collection chamber regularly. No deposits are to be expected in the hydraulic sector because of the flow.
Is it also permissible to use the floor drainage pump as a lifting station, e.g. for a bath or washbasin?
No, the Plancofix was only designed as a pumping floor drain for showers. It is not approved as a lifting station in accordance with DIN EN 12050. It should also be taken into account that, for example, the quantity of water introduced by draining of a bath would be too great.
Protection zone 0 only begins at the surface of the floor and Plancofix therefore has the corresponding VDE approval. Final electrical safety must be realised on site via the ground fault circuit interrupter.
The Plancofix is constructed in such a way that all its components can be exchanged separately if necessary. This relates to the motor, the hydraulic system and all other elements. The only process that requires substantial effort is the removal of the tank. But this should remain in the floor for many years after installation.
No, the power connection can be separated from the motor compartment. Please note: the connection for the cable conduit is in place and should be used. This would even allow exchange of the power supply line but this is never normally required!
No, because the metallic materials such as the switching shaft are not durable enough. This application is described clearly in the operating instructions, which must be observed!